– To inject personality without looking gauche, consider a silk damask or tone-on-tone floral pattern. – A slim cut is essential – you don’t want it to billow. – Always leave the bottom button undone on a single breasted waistcoat. – Single breasted solves the above problem and also has the advantage of elongating the torso. When you’re sitting down, though, it’s a bit of a nightmare – it won’t sit flat so you don’t look as complete.” But think carefully about whether you really do want DB: “I think double breasted looks awfully good when you’re standing up. – The most conservative look is cream, beige or grey in a double-breasted cut. ”You can get that one really, really wrong and it looks awful.” It should hit an inch below the waistband,” says Spencer. You could get one with a white collar, but “with all the decoration of the tie, button hole, and possibly a pocket square,” says Willis, “I prefer to keep the collar and the shirt one colour” Don’t be tempted to obscure the buttons with a fly front – Willis uses mother of pearl buttons, which deserve to be on show, and, in any case, a fly front is for evening wear.Ī crisp white shirt is traditional, but if you have olive skin or dark hair you could opt for ivory instead.Ī pale blue shirt is also acceptable. “Ask for a really light, good-quality, fine, breathable cotton – but one that’s not see-through, obviously.” Willis recommends “two-fold 170 cotton”. “So I would go for a reasonable cutaway.” “I think a straight down collar actually looks messier,” says Willis. The value of going bespoke is that all that will be guaranteed. The shoulder seams should lie at the edge of your shoulders, the collar should sit around the neck but not squeeze, and the cuffs should fall to just above the hand. But if you’re going for a very delicate little flower then I’d say why not – but choose something simple.”įit is paramount. “If you go to town with the flower, maybe a pocket square would be too much going on. Instead the legs should be just long enough to break once above your shoes. The trousers should sit high, and the fabric should not pool around your ankles. A peak lapel is very elegant, it’s all about drawing the eye from the shoulders to the waist.” Never buy a morning coat with a notch lapel. The plainer cloths somehow seem a bit ready-to-wear to me”. “A slight interest in the weave gives it a bit more depth and personality. “With a morning coat you’re looking for that more than with a normal suit.” This is vital to stopping the morning coat looking like a shapeless box.ĭon’t go for plain black fabric. In profile, the coat should make an S shape, cinching in at the waist and swooping out over your seat. “If they’re too small and your arms are bursting out it doesn’t look elegant if they’re too wide, it doesn’t look like it’s your size.” If you’re buying off the peg and planning to make adjustments, the most important thing is to make sure the shoulders fit as they are the one aspect that will be tricky to alter. “If it fits really well, that’s really the main thing that will make it look stylish,” says head cutter Davide Taub. The morning coat should fit snug to the contours of the body.
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